Client Education Potentially Harmful Ingredients In Personal Care Products On The Market Choosing products right for your skin isn’t always as easy as simply looking at the active ingredients on the label. While it’s essential to know that a formula contains active compounds proven to be beneficial for your skin, it’s also important to see what substances a product use to stabilize, preserve, and thicken the formula. Even though there are some government regulations that forbid the use of many harmful substances, there are still many more that are at least very questionable that are allowed in personal care products at a company’s discretion. These include chemicals that studies have shown to be carcinogenic, estrogenic, toxic in low amounts, or highly irritating. The following chart represents the most common of these ingredients in personal care products that can be potentially dangerous when used on a continual basis. While our formulas do not contain any of the following substances, please keep in mind that the vast majority of personal care products on the market (as many as 98%) do include at least one or more. It is strongly suggested that you become familiar with these compounds in order to make the most educated and informed purchasing decisions when evaluating personal care products. Most Common Potentially Harmful Chemicals In Skincare Products Acrylamide Also known as acrylic amide and 2-propenamide, acrtlamide is a chemical compound gound in many face and eye skincare products that is peoduced on an industrial scale by the hydrolysis of acrylonitrile by nitrile hydratase. Its primary use to synthesize polyacrylamides, which are water soluble thickeners. Acrylamide can occur naturally when starchy foods, such as fries or potato chips, are exposed to high heat during the browning process (such as when fried or microwaved). It does not occur in these same foods if they are raw, boiled, steamed, or otherwise cooked at a low temperature that avoids browning. There is strong evidence that extended exposure can cause damage to male reproductive organs and mammary tumor development. The acrylamide monomer is also a potent neurotoxin, causing the disassembly of intermediate filaments. Diazolidinyl Urea Considered to be a primary cause of contact dermatitis by the American Academy of Dermatology. Contains formaldehyde, a carcinogenic chemical that is toxic by inhalation or with chronic skin exosure, and can be a strong irritant. Dioxane Hidden in ingredients such as PEG, laureth, and ethoxylated alcohols, it is very common in personal care products. These chemicals are often contaminated with high concentrations of highly volatile 1,4-dioxane that is easily absorbed through the skin. Its carcinogenicity was first reported in 1965, and later confirmed in studies including one from the National Cancer Institute in 1978. FD&C Color Pigments These are synthetic colors made from coal tar. They contain heavy metal salts that can deposit toxins in the skin, causing skin sensitivity and irritation. Animal studies have shown almost all of them to be carcinogenic. Typically displayed as Red Dye 4 Blue 8 etc Fragrance “Fragrance on a label can indicate the presence of up to four thousand separate ingredients, some potentially irritating or even carcinogenic. Symptoms reported to the FDA in the U.S. include headaches, dizziness, allergic rashes, skin discoloration, coughing (sometimes severe), vomiting (sometimes severe), and skin irritation. Clinical observations have proven that some chemicals listed under the general heading of “fragrance” can affect the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity, and irritability. Instead, using certain aromatic essential oils and carefully selected aromatic plant extracts are the best and most natural ways to add delicate scents to skincare products. Imidazolidinyl Urea The trade name for this chemical is Germall 115. It can be toxic, releasing formaldehyde, a carcinogenic chemical, into cosmetics at over 10C. Lanolin Lanolin is a wax derived from sheep and used in topical products to increase skin’s moisture retention. While it can clog pores very easily, the major concern is that any chemicals used on sheep can contaminate the lanolin obtained from the wool. The majority of lanolin used in cosmetics is highly contaminated with chlorinated organo-pesticides like DDT. Paraben Preservatives (Methyl-, Isopropyl-, Isobutyl-, Propyl-, Butyl-, and Ethyl- Parabens) Parabens are used in personal care products as inhibitors of microbial growth to extend the shelf life of products (i.e. as preservatives), with the most popular ones being methylparaben and propylparaben. Parabens are often accused of being carcinogenic/mutagenic (cancer causing), but the scientific literature actually is muddled on this. What parabens have been strongly implicated in, however, is having estrogenic effects when applied to the skin (i.e. mimicking estrogen by binding to estrogen receptor sites, thereby interrupting the endocrine system). Because more studies are needed to verify whether parabens truly pose a health risk, but it is quite a gamble using products that contain them in the meantime (especially considering that they are often used in higher concentrations than other preservatives). If they are found to be estrogenic or carcinogenic then having used products that contain them would be a lost bet from a risk not worth taking. Phenol carbolic acid Phenol Carbolic Acid, also known as simply Phenol or Carbolic Acid, is a toxic aromatic chemical compound that was first used in the civil war as a surgery antiseptic. It is now used in mainstream oral antiseptics and in the production of drugs (it is the starting material in the industrial production of asprin), herbicides, embalming, and synthetic resins. It is a suspected carcinogen and can cause dermatitus in the skin and is also linked to harmful effects on the liver/kidneys. It is found in many lotions and skin creams. Polyethylene Glycol & Ethylene Glycol Potentially carcinogenic petroleum-derived ingredients that can be irritating, toxic at low concentrations, and alter/reduce the skin's natural moisture levels, which increases the appearance of aging. Polyethylene Glycol is used in industrial cleansers to dissolve oil/grease and thicken products, while Ethylene Glycol is used more often in anti-freeze products and can be corrosive/stripping. These substances should not be confused with Propylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol, which are very different and in their cosmetic grade forms of purity and low formula concentration in skincare products have been clinically shown not to be toxic, carcinogenic, or otherwise harmful. See the Clinical Studies section of this site for more information regarding their differences and uses. Mineral Oil Emollients (Mineral Oil, Liquidum Paraffinum, Paraffin Oil, Paraffin wax, Petrolatum, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Cyclomethicone) The term “Mineral Oil” is somewhat deceptive, softer way of saying petroleum oil (and is sometimes loosely used to encompass silicone oils that are derived from earth minerals). The term “mineral oil” is misleading because it ileads the consumer to think of actual minerals that are beneficial to human health (such as those minerals found in multi-vitamins). These non-biological oils are used in skincare products as long-lasting moisturizers (particularly in those advertised as lasting 24 hours). These oils coat the skin, trapping water underneath, preventing it from escaping (which is why they are most often used in moisturizing formulas). Unlike biological oils, which work with the skin, absorbing into it and imparting nourishing effects in addition of their moisturizing properties, mineral oils instead remain on top of the skin, trapping everything beneath them. While this does insulate moisture into the epidermis, it also prevents the skin from “breathing,” as if it were wrapped in plastic. Recent studies have indicated that this is especially unhealthy if it inhibits normal sweating by occlusion. Even though no evidence suggests that mineral oils themselves are carcinogenic or toxic upon topical application, they can be contaminated with cancer causing PAH's (Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons), and they are still less preferred to biological oil moisturizers that are not occlusive and contain other beneficial qualities for the skin. The following are common names of occlusive mineral/silicone oils: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) & Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES) When combined with other chemicals, SLES and ALES can create nitrosamines, a potent class of carcinogens (cancer causing chemicals). It is frequently disguised in semi-natural cosmetics with the explanation "comes from coconut" or “derived from coconut.” While that makes the ingredient sound natural, what the label doesn’t explain is what the coconut oil has to go through to become ammonium lauryl sulfate. Ammonium lauryl sulfate is the salt of a sulfuric acid compound, neutralized with an ingredient like triethanolamine. That is the more accurate description and it is quite removed from anything that could be considered “natural”. It’s often considered to be a harsh detergent that contributes to the foaming action of some cleansers and shampoos. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) & Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS) Used in car washes, garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers, and in roughly 90% of skincare products that foam. In lab experiments, animals exposed to SLS and ALS experienced eye damage, central nervous system depression, labored breathing, diarrhea, severe skin irritation, and even death. The eyes of younger human individuals may not develop properly if exposed to SLS and ALS. Frequently disguised in cosmetics with the explanation "comes from coconut" or “derived from coconut.” PVP/VA Copolymer A petroleum-derived chemical used in hairsprays and other cosmetics. While probably much more safe than other ingredients in this list, it is still considered potentially toxic when used in misting/spraying products since particles may lead to foreign bodies in lungs of sensitive persons. Toluene A potentially poisonous ingredient found in most synthetic fragrances that is made from petroleum and coal tars. Chronic exposure through skin exposure is linked to anemia, lowered blood cell count, liver and/or kidney damage. It may have also affect a developing fetus. While the above list discusses the most common potentially harmful ingredients in many skincare products, the following chart represents an extended list of potentially harmful ingredients in skincare and haircare products.* This list is classified by group and primarily deals with common haircare and cleansing product ingredients, particularly shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansing products. Expanded List Of Potentially Harmful Chemicals In Skincare Products (Arranged By Group) Anionic Surfactants Anionic refers to the negative charge these surfactants have. Surfactants can pose serious health threats since they may be contaminated with nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. They are used in car washes, as garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers, and at least one form is in 90% of personal-care products that foam. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS) Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES) Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate Potassium Coco Hydrolysed Collagen TEA (Triethanolamine) Lauryl Sulfate – See Nitrosating Agents, TEA Compounds TEA (Triethanolamine) Laureth Sulfate – See Nitrosating Agents, TEA Compounds Lauryl or Cocoyl Sarcosine Disodium Oleamide Sulfosuccinate Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Disodium Dioctyl Sulfosuccinate etc cationic Surfactants These chemicals have a positive electrical charge and contain a quaternary ammonium group, often called "quats.” These are frequently used in hair conditioners, but originated from the paper and fabric industries as softeners and anti-static agents. Over time they can cause the hair to become dry and brittle. These synthetic ingredients can be irritating, allergenic, toxic in low amounts, and oral intake of them can be potentially lethal in certain doses. Stearalkonium chloride – potentially toxic in low amounts and can cause allergic reactions. Stearalkonium chloride was developed by the fabric industry as a fabric softener; it’s cheaper and easier to use in hair conditioning formulas than proteins and certain extracts that benefit hair health. Benzalkonium chloride – can be highly toxic and a primary skin irritant. Cetrimonium chloride Cetalkonium chloride Lauryl dimonium hydrolysed collagen Ethoxylated Surfactants Ethoxylated surfactants are widely used in cosmetics as foaming agents, emulsifiers, and humectants. As part of the manufacturing process the potentially harmful chemical 1,4-dioxane, a potent carcinogen, is generated. On the label, they are often identified by the prefix PEG polyethylene polyethylene glycol polyoxyethylene eth or oxynol Nitrosating Agents The following chemicals can cause nitrosamine contamination, which have been determined to form cancer in laboratory animals. There are wide and repeated concerns in the USA and Europe about the contamination of cosmetics products with nitrosamines. 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol – also causes allergic contact dermatitis Sarcosine, Lauryl Sarcosine, and Cocoyl Sarcosine DEA (diethanolamine) compounds Often used in cosmetics (particularly ones intended to cleanse) to adjust the pH. Restricted in Europe due to known carcinogenic effects. Imidazolidinyl Urea Formaldehyde - known carcinogen that causes allergic reactions, irritation, contact dermatitis, headaches, and chronic fatigue. The vapor is extremely irritating to the eyes, nose, and throat (mucous membranes). MEA (Monoethanolamine) compounds - Often used in cosmetics (particularly ones intended to cleanse) to adjust the pH. Restricted in Europe due to known carcinogenic effects. Quaternium-7, 15, 31, 60, etc. – can be toxic & cause skin rashes & allergic reactions Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate Ammonium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate TEA TEA (triethanolamine) compounds Synthetic emulsifier that is highly acidic and can be severely irritating. Can cause allergic reactions including eye problems, dryness of hair and skin, and could be toxic if absorbed into the body over a long period of time. Over 40% of cosmetics containing TEA compounds have been found to be contaminated with nitrosamines (which are potent carcinogens). Restricted in Europe. The information obtained for this section is derived directly from Material Safety Data Sheets, medical databases, and other research spanning several countries and compiled to assure the highest accuracy of information being presented.