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Client Education: Potentially Harmful Ingredients Used In Skincare Products On The Market

 

Choosing products right for your skin isn’t always as easy as simply looking at the active ingredients on the label. While it’s essential to know that a formula contains active compounds proven to be beneficial for your skin, it’s also important to see what inactive substances they use to stabilize and preserve it. Even though there are some government regulations that forbid the use of the many harmful substances, there are still many very questionable ones allowed in personal care products at a company’s discretion. These include chemicals that studies have shown to be carcinogenic, estrogenic, toxic in low amounts, or highly irritating.

 

The following chart represents the most common of these ingredients in personal care products that can be potentially dangerous when used on a continual basis. While our formulas do not contain any of the following substances, please keep in mind that the vast majority of personal care products on the market (as many as 98%) do include at least one to several of the substances. It is strongly suggested that you become familiar with these compounds so that you can make the most educated and informed purchasing decisions when evaluating personal care products.

 

Most Common Potentially Harmful Chemicals In Skincare Products

Diazolidinyl Urea

Considered to be a primary cause of contact dermatitis by the American Academy of Dermatology. Contains formaldehyde, a carcinogenic chemical that is toxic by inhalation, and can be a strong irritant.

FD&C Color Pigments

These are synthetic colors made from coal tar. They contain heavy metal salts that can deposit toxins in the skin, causing skin sensitivity and irritation. Animal studies have shown almost all of them to be carcinogenic. Typically displayed as “Red Dye #4,” “Blue #8,” etc.

Fragrance

“Fragrance” on a label can indicate the presence of up to four thousand separate ingredients, some potentially irritating or even carcinogenic. Symptoms reported to the FDA in the U.S. include headaches, dizziness, allergic rashes, skin discoloration, coughing (sometimes severe), vomiting (sometimes severe), and skin irritation. Clinical observations have proven that some chemicals listed under the general heading of “fragrance” can affect the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity, and irritability. Instead, using certain aromatic essential oils and carefully selected aromatic plant extracts are the best and most natural ways to add delicate scents to skincare products.

Imidazolidinyl Urea

The trade name for this chemical is Germall 115. It can be toxic, releasing formaldehyde, a carcinogenic chemical, into cosmetics at over 10C.

Lanolin

Lanolin is a wax derived from sheep and used in topical products to increase skin’s moisture retention. While it can clog pores very easily, the major concern is that any chemicals used on sheep can contaminate the lanolin obtained from the wool. The majority of lanolin used in cosmetics is highly contaminated with chlorinated organo-pesticides like DDT.

Paraben Preservatives (Methyl-, Isopropyl-, Isobutyl-, Propyl-, Butyl-, and Ethyl- Parabens)

Parabens are used in personal care products as inhibitors of microbial growth to extend shelf life of products, with the most popular ones being methylparaben and propylparaben. While some have accused them of being carcinogenic/mutagenic (cancer causing) and irritating when topically applied, there is actually very little evidence of this. In fact, even those that have a history of allergic contact dermatitis had only a 1.6% incidence of irritation reaction in one study. The major concern over parabens isn’t in their carcinogenic or irritation potential, it’s in their potential to be estrogenic on the skin and in the body. Because more studies are needed to verify this it can not be certain as to whether parabens truly pose a risk, however, until more research comes out it is advised to think carefully before buying a product with these preservatives in the ingredient list. If they are found to be estrogenic this can be very dangerous, as it would mean that they compete for acceptance by estrogen receptor sites on cells.

Polyethylene Glycol & Ethylene Glycol

Potentially carcinogenic petroleum-derived ingredients that can be irritating, toxic at low concentrations, and alter/reduce the skin's natural moisture levels, which increases the appearance of aging. Polyethylene Glycol is used in industrial cleansers to dissolve oil/grease and thicken products, while Ethylene Glycol is used more often in anti-freeze products and can be corrosive/stripping. These substances should not be confused with Propylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol, which are very different and in their cosmetic grade forms of purity and low formula concentration in skincare productshave been clinically shown not to be toxic, carcinogenic, or otherwise harmful. See the Clinical Studiessection of this site for more information regarding their differences and uses.

Mineral Oil Emollients (Mineral Oil, Liquidum Paraffinum, Paraffin Oil, Paraffin wax, Petrolatum, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Cyclomethicone)

The term “Mineral Oil” is somewhat deceptive, softer way of saying petroleum oil (and is sometimes loosely used to encompass silicone oils that are derived from earth minerals). The term “mineral oil” is misleading because it ileads the consumer to think of actual minerals that are beneficial to human health (such as those minerals found in multi-vitamins). These non-biological oils are used in skincare products as long-lasting moisturizers (particularly in those advertised as lasting 24 hours). These “oils” coat the skin, trapping water underneath, preventing it from escaping (which is why they are most often used in moisturizing formulas). Unlike biological oils, which work with the skin, absorbing into it and imparting nourishing effects in addition of their moisturizing properties, mineral oils instead remain on top of the skin, trapping everything beneath them. While this does insulate moisture into the epidermis, it also prevents the skin from “breathing,” as if it were wrapped in plastic. Recent studies have indicated that this is especially unhealthy if it inhibits normal sweating by occlusion. Even though no evidence suggests that mineral oils themselves are carcinogenic or toxic upon topical application, they can be contaminated with cancer causing PAH's (Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons), and they are still less preferred to biological oil moisturizers that are not occlusive and contain other beneficial qualities for the skin. The following are common names of occlusive mineral/silicone oils:

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) & Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)

When combined with other chemicals, SLES and ALES can create nitrosamines, a potent class of carcinogens (cancer causing chemicals). It is frequently disguised in semi-natural cosmetics with the explanation "comes from coconut" or “derived from coconut.” While that makes the ingredient sound natural, what the label doesn’t explain is what the coconut oil has to go through to become ammonium lauryl sulfate. Ammonium lauryl sulfate is the salt of a sulfuric acid compound, neutralized with an ingredient like triethanolamine. That is the more accurate description and it is quite removed from anything that could be considered “natural”. It’s often considered to be a harsh detergent that contributes to the foaming action of some cleansers and shampoos.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) & Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS)

Used in car washes, garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers, and in roughly 90% of skincare products that foam. In lab experiments, animals exposed to SLS and ALS experienced eye damage, central nervous system depression, labored breathing, diarrhea, severe skin irritation, and even death. The eyes of younger human individuals may not develop properly if exposed to SLS and ALS. Frequently disguised in cosmetics with the explanation "comes from coconut" or “derived from coconut.”

PVP/VA Copolymer

A petroleum-derived chemical used in hairsprays and other cosmetics. While probably much more safe than other ingredients in this list, it is still considered potentially toxic when used in misting/spraying products since particles may lead to foreign bodies in lungs of sensitive persons.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   

While the above list discusses the most common potentially harmful ingredients in many skincare products, the following chart represents an extended list potentially harmful ingredients in skincare and haircare products.*

 

Expanded List Of Potentially Harmful Chemicals In Skincare Products (Arranged By Group)

Anionic Surfactants

Anionic refers to the negative charge these surfactants have. Surfactants can pose serious health threats since they may be contaminated with nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. They are used in car washes, as garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers, and at least one form is in 90% of personal-care products that foam.
               Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
               Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
               Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS)
               Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
               Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
               Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
               Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
               Potassium Coco Hydrolysed Collagen
               TEA (Triethanolamine) Lauryl Sulfate – See Nitrosating Agents, TEA Compounds
               TEA (Triethanolamine) Laureth Sulfate – See Nitrosating Agents, TEA Compounds
               Lauryl or Cocoyl Sarcosine
               Disodium Oleamide Sulfosuccinate
               Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
               Disodium Dioctyl Sulfosuccinate etc

Cationic Surfactants

These chemicals have a positive electrical charge and contain a quaternary ammonium group, often called "quats.” These are frequently used in hair conditioners, but originated from the paper and fabric industries as softeners and anti-static agents.Over timethey can cause the hair to become dry and brittle. They are synthetic and can be irritating, allergenic, toxic in low ammounts, and oral intake of them can be potentially lethal in certain doses.
               Stearalkonium chloride – potentially toxic in low ammountsand can cause allergic reactions. Stearalkonium chloride was developed by the fabric industry as a fabric softener; it’s cheaper and easier to use in hair conditioning formulas than proteins and certain extracts that benefit hair health.
               Benzalkonium chloride – can be highly toxic and a primary skin irritant.
               Cetrimonium chloride
               Cetalkonium chloride
               Lauryl dimonium hydrolysed collagen

Ethoxylated Surfactants

Ethoxylated surfactants are widely used in cosmetics as foaming agents, emulsifiers, and humectants. As part of the manufacturing process the potentially harmful chemical 1,4-dioxane, a potent carcinogen, is generated. On the label, they are often identified by the prefix "PEG", "polyethylene", "polyethylene glycol", "polyoxyethylene", "-eth-", or "-oxynol-"

Nitrosating Agents

The following chemicals can cause nitrosamine contamination, which have been determined to form cancer in laboratory animals. There are wide and repeated concerns in the USA and Europe about the contamination of cosmetics products with nitrosamines.
               2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol – also causes allergic contact dermatitis
               Sarcosine, Lauryl Sarcosine, and Cocoyl Sarcosine
               DEA (diethanolamine) compounds - Often used in cosmetics (particularly ones intended to cleanse) to adjust the pH. Restricted in Europe due to known carcinogenic effects.
               Imidazolidinyl Urea
               Formaldehyde - known carcinogen that causes allergic reactions, irritation, contact dermatitis, headaches, and chronic fatigue. The vapor is extremely irritating to the eyes, nose, and throat (mucous membranes).
               MEA (Monoethanolamine) compounds - Often used in cosmetics (particularly ones intended to cleanse) to adjust the pH. Restricted in Europe due to known carcinogenic effects.
               Quaternium-7, 15, 31, 60, etc. – can be toxic & cause skin rashes & allergic reactions
               Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
               Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
               Sodium Laureth Sulfate
               Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
               Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
               TEA (triethanolamine) compounds - Synthetic emulsifier that is highly acidic and can be severely irritating. Can cause allergic reactions including eye problems, dryness of hair and skin, and could be toxic if absorbed into the body over a long period of time. Over 40% of cosmetics containing TEA compounds have been found to be contaminated with nitrosamines (which are potent carcinogens). Restricted in Europe.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

©2006 XERIDIAN. All Rights Reserved

The information contained on this site is educational and general in nature and is not meant to substitute the advice provided by a medical professional. The products and statements on this site have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent disease. Please read all website information thoroughly, including the Terms & Conditions. Read the information and instructions provided on product container labels, packaging, and inserts carefully before application and always consult with a medical professional before using any product.